Krkonose is the oldest and largest national park in the Czech Republic, established in 1963 when the country was still Czechoslovakia. It covers 363 square kilometres along the Polish border in northeastern Bohemia, and it contains the highest terrain in the country. Snezka, the summit that marks the border with Poland, reaches 1,603 metres — modest by Alpine standards, but genuinely exposed and demanding in bad weather.
I have been coming here since I was a child, first with family and later on my own. The park has changed over the decades — some for better, some for worse — but the core experience of walking the ridge trails above the treeline, with views stretching into Poland on one side and down into Bohemian valleys on the other, remains one of the best things you can do outdoors in this country.
What Makes Krkonose Different
Most Czech nature is forest and river valley. Krkonose has those too, but it also has something rare in Central Europe: genuine alpine terrain. Above roughly 1,300 metres, the forest gives way to subalpine meadows and then to open tundra-like ridges. The vegetation here includes species found nowhere else in Bohemia — dwarf pine thickets, arctic-alpine plants, and the famous Krkonose violet that grows only in this mountain range.
The park is also a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which reflects the ecological significance of the high-altitude ecosystems. The peat bogs on the plateau are particularly important — they store carbon and water, and they support specialist plant communities that took thousands of years to develop.
The Main Trails
The ridge trail running along the Czech-Polish border is the backbone of the park's trail network. It connects the main summits and can be walked as a multi-day route or sampled in sections from various access points. The full ridge from Harrachov to Zacler is about 45 kilometres and takes two to three days with overnight stays in the mountain huts.
The most popular single-day objective is Snezka, the highest point. The standard approach from Pec pod Snezkou takes about two hours each way with around 700 metres of ascent. There is also a cable car from Pec that takes you to about 1,200 metres, reducing the walking distance significantly — useful if you have children or limited time, though the walking route through the forest and meadows is genuinely better.
The Labský důl (Elbe Valley) trail is less visited but one of my favourites. It follows the infant Elbe River from its source near Labská bouda down through a narrow valley with waterfalls and old-growth spruce forest. The trail is about 8 kilometres one way and is at its best in early summer when the waterfalls are running strong.
Trail Difficulty Overview
Easy: Valley trails, forest paths below 900m — suitable for families
Moderate: Ridge approaches, 900-1300m elevation — good fitness required
Demanding: High ridge routes, Snezka summit — weather-dependent, proper gear needed
Note: Weather changes rapidly above the treeline. Always carry waterproofs.
Snezka: The Summit
Standing on Snezka on a clear day, you can see across the Bohemian Basin to the south and deep into Poland to the north. The summit has a post office (the highest in the Czech Republic), a meteorological station, and a distinctive circular building that houses a restaurant and observation deck. The building dates from the 1970s and is either an eyesore or a fascinating piece of brutalist mountain architecture, depending on your perspective.
The summit is genuinely exposed. Even in summer, temperatures can be 10-15 degrees lower than in the valleys, and wind speeds regularly exceed 50 km/h. I have been up there in August in a t-shirt and been grateful for the windproof jacket I had in my pack. In winter, the summit sees some of the harshest conditions in Central Europe.
The Resort Towns and How to Use Them
Spindleruv Mlyn and Pec pod Snezkou are the main resort towns in the park. Both are primarily ski resorts in winter and hiking bases in summer. They have good accommodation options at various price points, reliable public transport connections, and equipment rental shops if you need gear.
Neither town is particularly charming — they have the slightly worn look of places that exist primarily to serve tourism — but they are functional bases. Harrachov on the western end of the park is smaller and less developed, which some visitors prefer.
The park administration has done good work in recent years on managing visitor pressure. Parking at popular trailheads is limited, and the shuttle bus system is well-developed. Using the buses rather than driving to each trailhead makes the logistics easier and reduces the environmental impact.
Wildlife and What to Look For
Krkonose has a healthy population of chamois — the mountain goat-like ungulate that was reintroduced here in the 20th century. They are most visible on the rocky slopes above the treeline, especially in the morning. Lynx are present but rarely seen. The park also has significant populations of capercaillie, a large forest grouse that is critically endangered in much of Europe.
The high-altitude peat bogs are worth seeking out specifically. The Úpské rašeliniště bog near the ridge is one of the largest in the country and has a boardwalk trail that lets you walk through it without damaging the vegetation. The landscape is otherworldly — flat, open, and covered in sphagnum moss and cotton grass.
Getting There
Pec pod Snezkou and Spindleruv Mlyn are about 150 kilometres from Prague, roughly two hours by car. There are direct bus connections from Prague's Florenc station to both towns, with journey times of around 2.5 to 3 hours. The buses are reliable and run year-round.
From Trutnov, the nearest larger town, local buses connect to the park towns. If you are coming from the east, Vrchlabi is a good access point with train connections from Hradec Kralove.
The official park website at krnap.cz has current trail conditions, shuttle timetables, and information about restricted zones. Some areas of the park are closed to visitors to protect sensitive ecosystems — check before you go.
